I grew up with $20 walmart blenders, and hated anything that required a blender.

Recently bought a ninja and there is no going back. I’ll never use a crappy blender again.

Anything else like that?

  • Snot Flickerman@lemmy.blahaj.zone
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    Boots.

    The reason that the rich were so rich, Vimes reasoned, was because they managed to spend less money. Take boots, for example. … A man who could afford fifty dollars had a pair of boots that’d still be keeping his feet dry in ten years’ time, while a poor man who could only afford cheap boots would have spent a hundred dollars on boots in the same time and would still have wet feet.

    A cute little passage from Terry Pratchett, but it holds very true if you ever need boots.

    Paying for quality boot work, especially the kind that can be re-soled, is worth it for anyone who has to wear boots with any regularity.

    When I first got a job that needed boots I was using an old secondhand pair. It was hell. Eventually I saved up for a quality pair and was totally worth it. I’ve not underspent on boots since.

    As for suggestions as to what brand to go with these days for that… I’m less sure on that because I’m researching new brands myself since Red Wings are a joke compared to what they used to be. Danner still seems pretty all right these days.

    • Sabata11792@kbin.social
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      You don’t truly appreciate a good pair a boots till you park a 2 ton pallet jack on your toes and laugh it off.

      • nilloc@discuss.tchncs.de
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        1 year ago

        And the interest is paid out to the rich, one way or another. Lately it’s been through retail, since we don’t qualify for home loans anymore.

    • evasive_chimpanzee@lemmy.world
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      Redwing still makes some good stuff, but they also make some “fashion” stuff that looks similar. Unfortunately happens with a lot of quality workwear.

      Rose Anvil on YouTube cuts boots and shoes in half and explains how and why they are designed the way they are, and where corners are cut, and what to look out for. He’s a good resource for checking out a boot you are interested in.

      Most of your “good” brands still have some crappy stuff in their lineup, but you might not be able to spot it by just looking at a web page.

      • espentan@lemmy.world
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        1 year ago

        Wearing a 16 year old pair of Redwings as I’m typing this. I haven’t even looked after them properly (e.g. greasing them frequently) and they’re still in good shape. Gave them a new sole a few years back.

        • evasive_chimpanzee@lemmy.world
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          1 year ago

          I wear a similarly old pair of Chippewa’s that have also been poorly treated, and they are still good (though I don’t have a job that would beat them up anymore)

    • Beardedsausag3@kbin.social
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      I second boots. I went through 3 cheap pairs of hiking boots (between £40 - £70) all promising the world and dry feet. In the end, sacked it off and bought all leather boots with a vibram sole. Requires maintenance of waxing them but they’ve had many miles in them now and just as good as day 1.

    • Broken_Monitor@lemmy.world
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      Upvote for discworld quotes. Pratchett was full of good advice. Some of that advice may have required living in a world full of magic and dragons but it was good advice all the same!

    • cluelessafterall@lemmy.world
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      Clothes in general. Sure, you can get and Old Navy T-shirt for ~$3-4, but they break down quickly. However, even a mid-level shirt from someplace like Land’s End or Eddie Bauer on sale can last year after year. Same with pants, jeans, coats, jackets, belts and other clothing. It’s also why it sucks to be poor. Needs need to be met immediately, but since you’re needing to keep food on the table and a roof over your head, so you buy what you can afford, even knowing that it’s more expensive in the long term.

      • Snot Flickerman@lemmy.blahaj.zone
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        1 year ago

        I agree, but I also disagree.

        A lot of people completely mistreat their clothes and have no idea how to wash them properly or mend them.

        I have lots of cheap Old Navy tees kicking around in good condition because I wash t-shirts on gentler cycles and hang them out to dry.

        • Tar_Alcaran@sh.itjust.works
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          With modern detergents, you can wash almost all clothing on 30 degrees C and a regular/gentle cycle, as long as they’re not visibly stained.

          The dryer is the death of clothes. That stuff you pull from the filter used to be your shirts and pants.

      • Gerudo@lemm.ee
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        Old old navy clothes were actually well made. The newer ones are definitely hit or miss.

    • rainynight65@feddit.de
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      Generally, don’t skimp on anything that goes between you and the ground. Shoes, mattresses, tyres… your future you will hate you for cheaping out on those.

    • daltotron@lemmy.world
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      Floors, carpets, stairs, your feet, a bicycle, maybe even your car, dirt, gotta invest in good walkable dirt, uhhh, what else here… socks, probably chairs, ladders, flights, if you’re flying always invest a lot in it, uhhhh. yeah probably some other stuff.

      I dunno I guess the point of my joke is that I think this is one of those heuristics, or like, general expressions, that ends up taking longer to say than what it actually means. “invest in your shoes and bed” takes longer to say than “invest in anything that keeps you off the ground”.

  • Apolinario Mabussy@lemmy.calvss.com
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    For most things in life I generally follow Adam Savage’s advice: “Buy cheap tools until you know what you really need from that tool, then buy the best version you can afford.”

    However, when it comes to things that are related to safety or protect you from harm the more expensive/high quality they get, that advice goes out the window. Case in point, PC PSUs. You probably don’t want your newly built PC to burst in flames because you skimped on it to buy a poorly rated PSU.

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    Kitchen knives, definitely. A good knife is a fucking godsend.

    Quality underwear (once you’re an adult).

    A good office chair (not necessarily one of those expensive as fuck mesh ones - I hate those… But something quality).

    Also, I’d distinguish between pointlessly expensive and quality.

    • Scrubbles@poptalk.scrubbles.tech
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      Idiots buy expensive gaming chairs. They feel like you’re sitting on plywood. I don’t care how many colors it has im going to be sitting on it for hours a day.

      Put that into a good office chair, where they put research into making sure you’re comfortable for that entire time

      • dsco@lemmy.dbzer0.com
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        You can get open box, unused steelcase chairs on eBay for cheaper than “gaming” chairs, BTW. There’s no reason to buy those abominations.

        • Overzeetop@sopuli.xyz
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          And, let me tell you, those chairs are worth it. I paid about $1200 for my Leap (I needed an extra tank one for a drafting table desk) and have had it 15 years now. 8-10 hours a day my job is to ensure that my chair does not float away using only my 200lb body mass. Not only is it still in good shape* I never have a sore back even after a long day of ballasting. Prior to owning the Leap I’d go through a $100 office store chair in a couple of years.

          *the seat cushion was a little worn at the edges and the cushion not quite as supple so I replaced that this year.

          • dsco@lemmy.dbzer0.com
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            I paid $230 for an open box Think v1 like five years ago, still use it everyday. I tried to upgrade to a v2, but the wife ended up with it instead.

      • i_stole_ur_taco@lemmy.ca
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        I bought a boring looking office chair from an ergonomic furniture store about 10 years ago. I spent about $600 and it’s still just as good as it was when I bought it.

        That’s a sharp contrast from the shitty $150 chairs I would keep buying from Costco and having to replace because the foam or seat started to collapse after a couple years.

      • jballs@sh.itjust.works
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        When I started working at home due to COVID, I decided to buy a new chair. I was tired of having shitty chairs with “genuine leather” (aka leather spray paint) that would peel off over time. So I looked into chairs and landed on a nice gaming chair. Sure, it’s ugly, but it’s gotta be comfy right? Nope. Sitting in this thing for hours at a time has quite literally translated into a pain in my ass. I had to eventually get a seat cushion to sit on, because it was killing me otherwise.

        In hindsight, I should have just gone with a traditional office chair.

      • PM_Your_Nudes_Please@lemmy.world
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        Ironically as someone who is physically very large, (I’m well over average height, and like 250lbs) gaming chairs are some of the only chairs that I can comfortably spend hours sitting in. Every single ergonomic chair I’ve tried has been garbage, and I’ve tried the ultra expensive ones through my job. Hell, I’m sitting in one right now as I type this. But ergonomic chairs all suffer from the same issue, that they’re built with the average body size in mind.

        I far prefer my Arozzi gaming chair, because it’s one of the only chairs I’ve used that has actually been comfortable for extended periods. The seat cushion is foam, but it has a mesh “sling” underneath which stretches. So I get the firmness from the foam, but the flex of the sling. So it doesn’t go flat over time like cheap foam-on-plastic/wood chairs, and it doesn’t fit my ass in weird ways like mesh ergonomic chairs. And the entire seat is designed with bigger people in mind, so the armrests are a little bit wider, the back is taller and actually reaches my head, etc.

      • Carighan Maconar@lemmy.world
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        Plus gaming chairs seem intended to be as uncomfortable to sit on as possible. They’re horrendous. The cheapest Ikea office chair for 130€ is worlds better than the priciest gaming chair you can find, since they all share the car seat form which is supposed to protect you during impacts, not be good for your back.

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        Allow me to sell you on my gaming chair that cured my back pain. I got a secret labs chair in 2020 because it was the only chair under a grand that could arrive in less than 3 days. It replaced a Herman Miller I used at work.

        The Herman Miller can only be sat in one way. It’s very light so climbing around it is just going to tip. You pretty much have to use it in the hr approved ergonomic position. Doing that for 8 hours a day just hurts. My gaming chair however is heavy enough that I can press my legs against the wall, or kneel on it without wobbling, or crosslegged. I can also sit with my neck on one handiest and my feet across another. Sometimes I lie with my legs at the head resting my head at the seat cushion.

        The best sitting position is the one you don’t stay in long, my gaming chair lets me do that and my back just stopped hurting. When the chair starts to age out I do plan on looking at ergo chairs as well, there seems to be a market for “weird chairs” that enable uncinventionak sitting but they seem to go a little too far as well, I do want to sit normally as well sometimes too. Gaming chairs really seem to hit my requirements of heavy, tall, wide and large armrests.

      • pearsaltchocolatebar@discuss.online
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        I wouldn’t buy their knives, though. Victorinox makes great knives for a reasonable price. I’ve had mine for ~5 years and I haven’t had to sharpen it, although I do hone it every once in a while.

        • PM_Your_Nudes_Please@lemmy.world
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          Victorinox are literally professional-quality knives. They’re used in restaurant kitchens around the world. They’re that nice middle ground between “so cheap they’re almost certainly made out of pig iron” and “so expensive that only niche hobbyists will pay for them.” They strike a nice balance, where they’re quality knives and they’re cheap enough that a restaurant can afford to keep dozens of them on hand without going bankrupt.

    • KoboldCoterie@pawb.social
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      A good office chair (not necessarily one of those expensive as fuck mesh ones - I hate those… But something quality).

      Man, I get they’re not for everyone, but after having a mesh chair, I will never go back. Currently on my second one in about 8 years, so it’s not exactly BIFL material but the first one lasted longer than a ‘normal’ chair ever did, and neither were particularly expensive, as quality chairs go (I paid ~$150 for the first and ~$225 for the second, got both during sales, so I’m not sure what the regular price would have been but I’d guess $300 or so).

      • xmunk@sh.itjust.works
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        It’s absolutely a choice of personal preference - I just wanted to be clear that the super trendy silicon-valley office chair company from a few years back isn’t necessarily best for everyone.

        Mesh chairs can be extremely comfortable if you run hot.

        • grue@lemmy.world
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          I just wanted to be clear that the super trendy silicon-valley office chair company from a few years back isn’t necessarily best for everyone.

          I agree that it’s possible to not like the style of a Herman Miller Aeron chair, or to not find it comfortable (if it’s the wrong size or not adjusted correctly), but you can’t deny that they’re incredibly durable (especially for mesh!). I’ve been sitting in mine daily for over a decade, and the mesh is still as tight and un-torn as it was the day I bought it – and it had probably spent years in a trendy dot-com company office before that!

      • chaogomu@kbin.social
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        1 year ago

        I actually say the cheapest option is buying a good quality Safety Razor, and then packs of blades for pennies each.

        It’s how I’ve shaved for years, and I’m never going back to the multi blade bullshit disposables.

        • ramble81@lemm.ee
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          I’m actually looking at going back as the safety razors don’t work as well for me as the multi blade stuff. I’ve been using double edges for probably 7-8 years now and when I have to use a disposable when traveling it just works so much better for some reason.

          • Habahnow@sh.itjust.works
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            I’m actually surprised to hear this. To confirm, you mean the shave cuts closer with a multi blade? I can understand it being faster or easier to do, but I don’t usually hear that the shave is better compared to a DE

            • ramble81@lemm.ee
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              Yup. I’m trying to figure out what I’ve been doing wrong. It may be a time thing. I don’t have a lot of time to shave, but I can go over an area multiple times in the same direction and a disposible will work better. I usually don’t go against the grain as it irritates the hell out of my skin so it’s with the grain and the disposable cuts closer.

              It’s most likely a time thing since I only have time to do a single pass and quite often with no extra oils, creams, etc.

              • AntY@lemmy.world
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                It could have to do with the make and model of the razor. Some have a more aggressive angle than others. There’s also the blades. Have you tried feather blades?

              • Habahnow@sh.itjust.works
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                Yeah I usually do 2 passes as well using only a staging soap(no pre shave oil). If you prefer to do things faster, I will say a fixed blade is usually faster. I personally don’t mind the extra time, considering it’s cheaper and better for the environment to use a DE (so long as you don’t give in to the urge to keep buying a bunch of razors, soaps lol)

    • evasive_chimpanzee@lemmy.world
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      Also, I’d distinguish between pointlessly expensive and quality.

      This is big RE: the kitchen knives. Science/engineering has figured out how to produce good steel, so it actually does not cost much to produce a very capable, good knife. Maybe you had to spend a lot for a good knife 200 years ago, but not now.

      I got a Mercer chef knife from a restaurant supply store years ago. Just looking it up, it costs <$25, and it’s designed to be used all day by professionals. The often recommended victorinox fibrox is similar. They are easily sharpenable, and can do whatever you need.

      I also have a ~$200 chef knife I got as a gift. It’s super nice, but the only real non-cosmetic differences are that the edges of the back of the blade are rounded over to make it a little more comfortable to hold while choking up on it, and it has a long warrantee that includes sharpening.

      • Appoxo@lemmy.dbzer0.com
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        1 year ago

        But now is the question about longevity:
        Will it hold a year of kitchen work and then be basically done or will it have near/equal/better resiliency than a proper forged non-mass produced knife?

        • JDubbleu@programming.dev
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          Eh, it’s really not that much money to get a half decent set. Learn to sharpen/hone a knife and learn how to use a knife properly and you can make even cheap knives last basically forever. Babish has a <$100 knife set that’s serviceable as a professional set.

          I’m very into cooking and have a $700 set of Wüsthof knives and they’re awesome to use, but 100% unnecessary. They’d be no better than a dollar store knife if I didn’t learn to take care of them. So many people drag knife edges sideways on cutting boards, cut on improper surfaces, cut in ways that dull the edge quickly, and then throw them in the dishwasher. Then after a year of not sharpening them replace them for more than the cost of a good sharpener.

          With proper care/use and almost daily cooking I sharpen my chef’s knife once a month, and my other knives once every few months. For $50 you can get a sharpening system with a guide that makes it almost impossible to fuck up and you’ll never pay for knives again.

        • evasive_chimpanzee@lemmy.world
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          I mean, it’s not going to break on me. I think there’s enough debate on the “stamped vs forged” issue to show that it’s not a huge difference that would be noticeable to most non-professionals. Maybe if I used my knives all day every day, I’d notice a difference in edge retention or ease of sharpening, but just making dinner ever night, I don’t notice a difference.

          • jmp242@sopuli.xyz
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            Some of it is also going to be experience using it.

            Like I have Rada and Cuisinart and Wustoff knives. The Rada is super cheap, and very sharp and holds an edge well. But its handle is pretty uncomfortable, and god forbid you’re trying to chop a large cabbage in half, you’ll hurt your hand on the top it’s sooo narrow. But I can hit it with something and it’s going to cut that cabbage the easiest because it’s a narrow blade. The Cuisinart were a gift long ago, and really were just overpriced worse Rada. They have thin blades and don’t hold an edge as well as the Rada. The Wustoff have the most comfortable handles to hold IMO, and nice thicker backs that make them hold up to lots of abuse - you can chop bones and such without worry. They also hold an edge pretty well, but also sharpen nicely. People also seem appreciative of Wustoff so you get some status when using them FWIW.

            I actually think there are things that the cheap versions can work as well as the expensive ones, but in such a PITA way that you’ll infrequently use them. Cameras are one of these things - pretty much any camera can take a picture, but try a low end Motorolla phone camera vs a mid range OnePlus or high end Samsung / iPhone and you’ll have so much more frustration with the Motorolla you’ll get a different phone to get a “camera that works”. Same with ILC - you can get a Canon 4000D and it’ll be capable of taking better technical shots than the high end smartphone. It’ll just require quite a lot of skill. Put it next to a high end Canon R5 and you’ll see how the quality of life improvements and everything else will make it a lot more fun to use.

    • atlasraven31@lemm.ee
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      I bought a nice sharp knife for my Mom because hers were dull. She has a utensil drawer she throws all the knives on.

      • Tar_Alcaran@sh.itjust.works
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        From the drawer, into cutting the cardboard box, then the veggies, and straight into the dishwasher. And people wonder why their knives go dull so quickly.

        Tbf, I keep my crappy box-cutting, hole pokinng Ikea knives in the kitchen drawer too. But if you do that to my good knives, I will stab you (with the Ikea ones).

    • jackoneill@lemmy.world
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      I second the desk chair as a fat crippled IT worker that spends 10+ hours a day in a desk chair. I used to get a new $500ish chair every 3 or so years when it fell apart. This last time I saved up and dropped about 2.5k on a really nice chair rated for 24/7 use by someone much heavier than I am and it’s a life changer for my back, and this thing should last a lot longer

      • EssentialCoffee@midwest.social
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        Really depends on what you need. I’ve been using a $500-600 24/7 rated office chair daily for over a decade and it’s still as fantastic as the day I sat in it on the floor.

        The $700 one I have at my other desk is good, but not quite as good as the cheaper one, but I didn’t sit in it at the show room before getting it either.

        • jackoneill@lemmy.world
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          Yeah, the brand I went with was concept seating. I’m about 6’7” around 400 pounds - fat gut, big bones, decent amount of muscle - was a lineman before I got crippled. I am 100% a fatass, no excuse, but also big in other dimensions as well. Most chairs, even the big and tall ones from staples and the like, will get a bit of a gangster lean after a year or so of use as the chairs base plate slowly warps and tack welds come loose. You can grind it down and patch up the welds, but not much to be done about the plate warp. The concept seating chair I got has a massively thick base plate that seems like it will hold up to a lot more. One other thing I really like about the one I got is that it doesn’t have the most common failure point, the piston. Instead it has a fuck off huge solid threaded shaft that you use to screw the chair to the right height then lock it with a massive lock washer. Additionally it doesn’t recline or move in any other way other than to spin and roll. You can loosen bolts to adjust the fit then tighten them back up, but nothing is easily adjustable with levers and stuff which I love because those are just failure points and I’d much rather spend the time to set it up once Ave never worry about it again

        • grue@lemmy.world
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          1 year ago

          Herman Miller or Steelcase.

          I bought a pair of used (probably dot-com-era surplus) Herman Miller Aeron chairs for me and my wife over a decade ago for like $350 (don’t remember if that was for the pair or per-chair; either way it was a bargain) and they’re still going strong.

    • idunnololz@lemmy.world
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      What’s special about quality underwear? I bought a bunch of fruits of loom ones which is pretty cheap but I never noticed it being and issue.

    • Digitalprimate@lemmy.world
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      Quality knives do not have to be super expensive. The trick is to maintain them. Honing of course, and unless you are a super enthusiastic home cook, a proper sharpening by a pro on Japanese wet stone twice a year is all it takes. That’s like at most USD 20 in most places, probably less. Even mid range knives are fine, so long as you keep them sharp.

      And you don’t need a lot. In theory a good chefs knife and a good paring knife will do. In practice, you also want a bread knife and filleting knife, but you can start small.

    • ColeSloth@discuss.tchncs.de
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      As to kitchen knives…you don’t need a big set with 10 different knives. Just buy a good chefs knife and a boning knife and a pearing knife and you’re good for damn near everything you need.

      Beyond that you can get a bread knife if you ever do up bread you’d need one for, and a cheese knife if you slice your own cheese. I highly recommend you get knives that the blade goes from tip to heel, and avoid ones with an unsharpened/flat heel area.

      Then you want a decent wet stone to keep em sharp and learn to use it. Just get a combination 500/1000 (ish) grit and a 2000 grit and that’s plenty for a kitchen knife. Then get a honing steel and you’ll only have to sharpen your knives a couple times a year.

      Also, if you’re a home cook with no aspirations of becoming a professional chef or hosting huge meals all the time, no reason to break the bank buying something like a $200 chefs knife. Victorinox makes a perfectly fine dishwasher safe chefs knife for like $40. If you’re happy with hand washing and drying a knife right after you use it, go for a high carbon knife instead. They get sharper and stay sharp longer but the added care may not be worth it to you.

    • knfrmity@lemmygrad.ml
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      Second kitchen knives. I use exclusively handmade Japanese carbon steel knives now and will never go back. When I have to cut something at someone’s else’s home or a vacation place I just cringe and suffer. Even the supposedly high quality German stainless chef’s knife someone gifted me once just isn’t it, I never touch it.

    • daltotron@lemmy.world
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      1 year ago

      Instead of an office chair, I opted for a loveseat, on risers, that I can pull fit inside of my desk.

      Risers end up being necessary for a standing desk, if you have a loveseat, apparently, because a loveseat sits much lower than most good computer desks that I’ve found, so to get comfortable typing position, you need good risers. You’re also gonna need a couch that stands up higher than your loveseat’s feet, so you can clear the feet and pull the desk in far enough (it might still not be enough, frankly). You might wanna opt for castors, though, since then you can make use of a standing desk, if you have one, which is probably a good idea instead of sitting on the couch for too long.

      And, you know, after all that, I get a seat that’s kind of frankly not that comfortable to sit on for extended periods of time, because nobody has engineered their couch for you to sit on for multiple hours. I would wager that’s probably a bad thing anyways. I’ve been looking into standing-to-sitting desks, in order to overcorrect from this problem of sitting in one position, and get a desk that I can sit on the floor with, and basically whatever position I want. But that also kind of sucks, because there are only two and they are both like 1000 bucks.

      On the other hand, a loveseat is much better for spooning, than having two office chairs. So that’s a bonus, if you wanted to spoon at your computer. Or you could just cast your screen to the smart TV you probably already have and buy a bluetooth computer controller for like 20 dollars or less.z

      I hope someone reading this gains some insight because of this. You should buy a regular chair. It’s expensive but just buy it please I’m begging you, don’t make my mistakes again.

    • zacharoid@kbin.social
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      1 year ago

      Agree with the underwear, I’m still wearing pairs daily that I bought from 2015. Around $15 a pair.

  • Mint_Raccoon@kbin.social
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    1 year ago

    It’s almost always better to not buy a cheap sex toy. There’s no regulation of the industry and many materials in cheaper toys are just straight up dangerous. Here’s an article (it’s NSFW, there are pictures) that goes over what materials are and aren’t safe.

  • konalt@lemmy.world
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    1 year ago

    Custom building a computer? Don’t cheap out on the power supply or you might end up with a smoke machine

  • pixelscript@lemmy.ml
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    1 year ago

    I believe in the adage of, “If it sits between you and the ground, don’t skimp”.

    Shoes, socks, desk chairs, lounge chairs, sofas, car( seat)s, mattresses…

    You spend too much time in or on all of these things to be uncomfortable.

    I also see posted here the Adam Savage advice of buying cheap tools first, and then upgrade after you better understand your needs. I also think that’s great advice you can apply to most things. Just not the above things.

  • Gallardo994@sh.itjust.works
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    1 year ago

    Laptops. Cheap and midrange ones defined how people perceive laptops in general: slow, hot and awful to use. Expensive ones are usually amazing, but you still have to do your research before purchasing it.

    Also, cigars. Nothing comes close to proper Cuban ones.

  • 0ops@lemm.ee
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    1 year ago

    For most things, imo, there’s a middle ground. I don’t think that getting the super-high end version of anything is worth it unless you truly use it enough to justify it, like for work or a serious hobby. But the cheapest option is usually junk that will do a poor job and won’t last; if anything you’d save money by spending a little more for something decent, even if it’s not world-class.

  • mongooseofrevenge@lemmy.world
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    1 year ago

    I’ll say a vacuum.

    When I was a college kid in an apartment I bought the bottom-shelf, bagged Dirt Devil vacuums and dealt with it. All the clogging, hair in the brush, cheap quality/you get what you pay for, etc. Then I moved into a house I got a mid-range Bissell to help deal with all the pet hair. The thing was questionably designed, still got a bunch of the hair in the roll, and needed regular upkeep to make sure it functioned properly. When that one went out I wasn’t going to pickup the same thing even though it technically lasted for years.

    I recently picked up a Shark Rotator and it sucks in the best way possible. Was it expensive? Yes. Was it worth it? Absolutely. I can vacuum my whole house knowing I’m getting as much dirt, dust, hair off the floor as possible. And I’m not going to have to deal with even half the problems the low-end vacuums have. It pivots and gets right up against walls. There is a clear window to see the brush roll from the top. It also uses fins that just don’t collect hair anyway. The whole canister comes off in one easy motion and I can dump it without spilling all over the now clean floor. There are two roll speeds for hard floors and carpet. The brush roll doesn’t spin when it’s locked upright so it’s not flinging stuff around or grinding into the carpet while I try to clean corners or the couch. And even though it’s one of their “heavier” models it’s still lighter than the Bissell I lugged around for years.

    This is a case that better design and features comes with a price. And those design choices can directly make your life easier. So if you can afford it, go for it.

    • jmp242@sopuli.xyz
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      1 year ago

      Sure, but I’d also avoid Shark at all costs because they’re not really made to be serviced. Also bagless, which generally suck in a bad way. I’d suggest something like a Sebo model with the electric brush head. Easy to service, last a very long time, use bags which are just cleaner and avoid needing to think about cleaning out dust storage areas to keep airflow up, and have great canister options.

      • PM_Your_Nudes_Please@lemmy.world
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        1 year ago

        Yeah, ask anyone who uses a vacuum regularly (like a custodian) and they’ll tell you that bagged vacuums are far superior to bagless. Go get a Sanitare commercial, or an Oreck commercial. It’ll last forever, never break, be easy to service, and it’ll suck a fucking golfball through a garden hose. My Sanitare commercial literally lifts the carpet up off of the pad, and virtually every single part is replaceable, (though I doubt I’ll ever need to replace anything except the brushes, bags, and belts.)

        Commercial vacuums lack a lot of the bells and whistles that home vacuums have, but that’s because they’re laser focused on two things: Reliability and suction power.

    • evasive_chimpanzee@lemmy.world
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      1 year ago

      I could rant about vacuums forever. So many people complain about vacuums not working well, but also never pull out and clean or replace the filter.

    • iheartneopets@lemm.ee
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      1 year ago

      If you’re getting a BIFL buy-once-cry-once vacuum, I’d go straight for the Miele cannister vac. I went into an ADHD deep dive on vacuums a year ago when my own Shark needed replacing. Splurged on one and it completely changed how I feel about vacuuming. Of course, I’m 4’11, so ymmv on that, but using a good cannister vac that is lightweight VS pushing around something big and heavy makes a world of difference.

      Plus, I like that it uses bags instead of a cannister; I was tired of emptying the cannister and getting a face full of dog hair and dirt that I then also had to clean up (again). That may also be personal preference, though.

    • DrRatso@lemmy.ml
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      1 year ago

      I picked up a karcher shop style vacuum for my home, cost a bit more than the cheapest home style vacs, but a lot cheaper than the expensive home style vacuum, and boy does this baby suck (in a good way). I feel like most of the home vacs are only expensive to make them small and maybe a little quieter. But if you don’t care about that, you can get a very good vacuum for relatively cheap.

      • jmp242@sopuli.xyz
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        1 year ago

        Some are expensive for filtering reasons. It can take some engineering to build HEPA or similar filtration along with seals that actually have the filters work, plus managing motors or filter designs that aid in the high speed airflow needed for a vacuum.

    • RBWells@lemmy.world
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      1 year ago

      We have a Roomba for so many years now and what it taught me is that consistent daily effort > heroic occasional effort. It’s not a great vacuum at all but it runs every day for a couple of hours and that keeps the floors so much cleaner than any good vacuum. No way am I going to vacuum every day everywhere like it does. Two dogs, two cats, three girls, so much hair, and clean floors.

  • Honytawk@lemmy.zip
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    1 year ago

    Mattress and shoes.

    Both of which you use multiple hours each day, and can really break your body if they aren’t ergonomic.

    The cheap ones also break often, costing you more money in the long run.